Tuesday, August 25, 2009
A time for Reflection
Monday, August 3, 2009
The Dream
I dream of the plains in tales of old
Where cockspur ferns stretch to the sky
Where the hoof beats of herds have measured the passage of time
Where the cool of the evening carries the songs of shepherds
Where the music
Of the evening breeze accompanies the conversation of friends
Where the lion grunts
And roars in the night
Where the noise of the war
Is silenced forever
I dream,
I dream of waking
Beneath a morning moon, lost
Under the endless sky
Of Umutara
Rwanda Nziza
“A treat for the eyes”
The ribbon of tarmac snakes,
Flows into the hollows, climbs the slopes.
The drunken eye trying to find some steadying detail
Merely looses itself in a thousand hills
The furrows of terraces, the chess board of crops
The plumb line valley bottoms.
A visual Symphonie Fantastique
From the behind leafy screen of banana trees
Points the rusty red of roofs
Mounted on the white of a thousand tiny houses
A magic garden for tropical gnomes?
Far distant where the sun sets
Where the line of mountains stands
Dressed in every shade of blue
Reaching for the heavens
Remains a last elusive plot
Eluding the hand of Man
The spade of man
To the very last.
Each stage of the journey unfolds
Sky of Kamonyi, Gitarama
Kabgayi the seat of Bishops
Nyanza, home of Kings
Fountain of mysteries
Where lovers quench their thirst
Rubona, Save, Butare
Each seeming glimpse of elegance
Is merely part of daily life
Take the journey again
This time in your mind
All is colour and light
The spirits of the martyrs are my witness
Beneath the value of the eternal sky
Land of sweetness and of pain
Just as in the proverb I say
God may spend his days elsewhere
But this is where he lays his head
God’s house is here
Saturday, July 25, 2009
Rwanda's History and Genocide Memorials
Mwaramutse (Good Morning),
I can’t believe that I return to the states in just two weeks time. I get a little sad whenever it passes through my mind, but the thought of ice cream has helped to sooth the anxiety. The last two weeks have been packed, hence the reasons why I have not given a detailed update for quite some time.
I would like to share with you my experience at one of the memorials I visited, but first I think it is necessary to give a brief history of Rwanda for those of you who may be unfamiliar with it.
The Belgians and French colonized Rwanda. Before this time, the Rwandan people lived together in unity, sharing the same culture, language, and traditions. When the Belgians took over, they began to create an ethnic divide between all Rwandese, creating two ethic groups: Hutu and Tutsi. The ways in which the Belgians divided the people came down to simple tactics such as the number of cows a person owned. If you owned more than ten cows, you were Tutsi, less than ten, you were Hutu. The Belgians also tried to give certain physical features to the Hutus and Tutsi, specifically the for-shape of the nose. The Belgians decided that the minority, the ethnic Tutsis, was to be the superior group. They were given the best government positions and jobs, as well as the support of the Belgians.
After Rwanda’s independence in 1962, extremist Hutu groups started to stand up against the “superior” Tutsi. Thus started the gradual killing of the Tutsi people. From 1962 -1994, sporadic cleanings of the Tutsis took place.
In April 1994, after much planning and preparation, a Genocide against the Tutsis commenced. In just 100 days, 1 MILLION people were murdered. The goal was to have a complete ethnic cleansing of the Tutsi people. Men, women, and children all over Rwanda were slaughtered. Thousands of people took refuge in schools and churches where safety had been guaranteed, only to be road blocked, deprived of food and water, and then killed. During this time, almost no foreign aid or intervention took place, including the United States.
I arrived in Kigali during the 100 days of commemoration of the Genocide. Since my arrival, I have visited the Kigali Memorial Center, Nyatama and Ntarama Churches, as well as Murambi memorial.
Last weekend I visited Murambi, a school where 50,000 people took refuge during the Genocide. Out of the 50,000 people who went there, only 4 survived. Having been to three memorials already, I figured I was fairly prepared. This feeling stayed with me until I entered the first classroom, where low-lying tables held rows of bodies. Although each body has been covered in lime, they have not been preserved in any other way. While visitors have been viewing these bodies for the last 15 years, they have been rotting right before their eyes. Some still have hair, some clothes, and some teeth. One can see the injuries they concurred.
After spending about an hour walking through all the classrooms, our guide showed us the mass grave that the bodies had been dumped in by the French, some still alive. Now the grave is empty for viewers to see. Before we went through the memorial, we were given a testimony of our guide, one of the four survivors. He had a visible round indent on the top of his head where a perpetrator had tried to shoot him. His wife and children laid in one of the classrooms.
The last two months have definitely given me a powerful perspective on what took place here in Rwanda 15 years ago. This week I attended a conference on reconciliation, where I was able to hear more testimonies of both survivors and perpetrators of the Genocide. Wether it be at Gisimba, the memorials, or just conversing with friends, I continue to learn everyday about this difficult process.
I hope that this blog has given you a little insight on this very special country and the time I am spending here.
Umunsi mwiza (have a good day!),
-Rach
Thursday, July 23, 2009
Another year older in Rwanda!
Friday, July 17, 2009
Pics are up!
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
No thankyou, No Merci, Oya Morokoze....no, seriously, I don't want to buy that.
This last week as been filled with some great learning experiences and adventures.
On Tuesday, "the group" of us ex-pats went out to celebrate two birthdays: Michelle's and Karens. While enjoying a lovely meal of Iitalienne food and South African wine ( I know, silly us) the group somehow managed to get into a very heated discussion on family planning, growth population, and westernized humanitarian work. Oh to have been one of the nearby tables listening in on 8 muzungus trying to justify their stand point on anthrapological theology. It was all in good fun of course. It has been great to be surrouned by so many inspiring individuals with such diverse backgrounds, yet the common passion to be here in Rwanda.
Friday was a very special day at Gisimba. Proclamation Day! Being the last day of school before holiday, all the parents came in with their children. The kids performed the songs they have learned this term (including the ones that I taught them) and were given back their "exams" for their parents to awe over. We also put coloring books together of a Kermit the frog story that the children had learned to recite. It is so cute to hear little children try to read an american story in their African accent.
I was very honored when after school ended the teachers asked me to join them for fanta (soda) and beer. We spent almost 2.5 hours together which was largely filled up with them giving speeches about me. Father Gisimba also joined us, telling stories about the orphanage and his time he spent in Ohio. His quiet presence and witty humor added to the afternoon celebration. Anne Marie (the principal), also asked for my presence at her sons graduation party on August 1st, which is also the same day that Saundra (a young woman from Gisimba) will be getting married at the orphanage. I am looking forward to both.
This weekend the group is going to Nyungwe National Forest to go Monkey trekking and camping. 7 people. One Tent. I may be the only one who brought a sleeping bag to Rwanda. Should be a blast!
-Rach
